Kyoto: A Father-and-Son Farewell to Japan

Japan Together · Chapter 4

In brief: Our final stop brings us from Osaka to Kyoto: a riverside welcome, Kiyomizu-dera, gardens, Kōdai-ji, old streets and a final dinner before leaving Japan with a reason to return.

Triyana Diaries | Japan Chapter

Our final stop in Japan was Kyoto, and almost immediately, we wished we had given ourselves more time.

After Tokyo’s energy and Osaka’s lively streets, Kyoto offered a different rhythm. Japan’s former imperial capital felt like a place best explored slowly: through its temples, along its old stone lanes, and beside the river as the afternoon softened into evening.

For my son and me, it would become a memorable final chapter of our journey.

A Riverside Welcome

The bullet train journey from Shin-Osaka to Kyoto took approximately fifteen minutes. Another local train ride brought us closer to The Ritz-Carlton, Kyoto, our home for the last night of the trip.

Set beside the Kamo River, the hotel combined Japanese design with beautiful views of the water. We arrived in the early afternoon, and the duty manager welcomed us with an unexpected upgrade: a spacious two-room suite with two queen beds and a balcony overlooking the river.

It was the kind of room that made you reconsider your sightseeing plans.

We could easily have spent the afternoon enjoying the balcony, but Kyoto was waiting. We dropped our bags, took a few moments to appreciate the view, and headed out for our scheduled tour.

Kiyomizu-dera: Above the City

Our first stop was Kiyomizu-dera, the celebrated “Pure Water Temple” in Kyoto’s Higashiyama district. Founded in 778, it takes its name from the clear waters of the Otowa Waterfall. Its principal object of worship is Kannon, the Buddhist bodhisattva of compassion. (kiyomizudera.or.jp⁠, kiyomizudera.or.jp⁠)

The approach was full of anticipation. Beyond the busy streets, the temple grounds opened into impressive gates, a vivid red pagoda, and views across the surrounding hills.

The main hall and its famous wooden stage were especially striking. Standing above the trees, we looked out across Kyoto, taking in the contrast between the historic temple and the city stretching into the distance.

We were visiting in September, when the landscape was still beautifully green. It was easy to imagine returning in another season and seeing the same view transformed.

Below the main hall, we reached the Otowa Waterfall. Its three streams draw visitors who collect the water and offer prayers for purification and the fulfillment of their wishes. We, too, hoped to leave with a little of the good fortune associated with this special place. (kiyomizudera.or.jp⁠)

Among the details that caught our attention were small stone figures wearing pink and red bibs. Between the grand buildings and sweeping views, these modest figures offered a quieter moment—one that made us pause and look more closely.

Another memorable sight was the heavy iron staff associated with the legendary warrior monk Benkei. Visitors took turns attempting to lift it, each approaching with confidence before discovering just how difficult the challenge was.

We decided to watch. The determined attempts, surprised expressions, and laughter were entertaining enough without adding our own unsuccessful effort.

Gardens and a Long-Awaited Lunch

Kyoto’s gardens offered another way to experience the city. At Ryōan-ji, known for its celebrated rock garden, the grounds provided a peaceful setting for a slower walk. After the bustle of the temple approaches, the garden and pond gave us time to appreciate the surroundings at a gentler pace. (japan.travel⁠)

By the time we returned to the streets lined with shops and food stalls, we were well past our usual lunchtime. Around us, visitors sampled local delicacies, browsed souvenirs, and stopped for photographs. Every passing food stall made us a little hungrier.

We had been recommended a small, family-run Japanese restaurant nearby and went looking for it.

Inside, a welcoming host showed us to our table. The menu was entirely in Japanese, which made ordering part of the adventure. Soon, an assorted sushi platter and a steaming bowl of udon with fish cake arrived.
After hours of walking, the warm broth and freshly prepared food were exactly what we needed. It was a satisfying pause before continuing our afternoon.

Kōdai-ji and the Bamboo Grove

After lunch, we followed a quieter back lane toward Kōdai-ji.

The temple’s gardens brought together ponds, carefully arranged stones, traditional buildings, and a bamboo grove. Each part of the grounds invited us to stop, look, and take our time. (japan.travel⁠)

The bamboo grove was particularly memorable.

A path led us down through tall stalks of bamboo, their canopy shading the stone steps below. We walked slowly, pausing for photographs and enjoying the change of atmosphere after the crowded streets.

There was something mesmerizing about the height of the bamboo and the way the path disappeared between it. This was one of those places where taking a photograph felt necessary, although no photograph could quite capture the experience of being there.

Nearby, the enormous seated figure of Ryōzen Kannon rose against the hillside. Seeing it helped us understand the scale of the statue far better than any picture could. (shugakuryoko.kyoto.travel⁠)

Old Streets and a Shopping Detour

Our exploration of Higashiyama also took us through Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka, where stone steps and traditional storefronts created some of the afternoon’s most memorable street scenes.

The lanes were busy, but there was plenty to enjoy between the crowds: a shop entrance, a carefully displayed souvenir, a glimpse down a side street. We kept finding reasons to stop.

From there, we continued toward central Kyoto and its shopping streets.

Along the way, we paused at Shijō Bridge to look north along the Kamo River. We also passed the Takase River, whose narrow canal offered a more intimate waterside scene.

Then came a shopping stop my son and I were both looking forward to: Onitsuka Tiger.

We wanted to pick up shoes from the Japanese brand while we were in Japan. Trying them on and choosing our pairs became another shared memory from the day—a small addition to a trip already full of them.

Sunset Beside the Kamo River

As sunset approached, we returned to the hotel.

It had been a beautiful, sunny day, and people were gathering along the river to enjoy the evening. From our balcony and the riverside, we watched the light change over the water. Birds moved through the scene, while walkers lingered along the banks.

After an afternoon filled with temples, gardens, and busy streets, it felt good to sit still.

Our time in Japan was nearly over. Watching the river with my son, I found myself thinking about everything we had experienced—and how quickly the days had passed.

We arrived at 7:30 p.m., ready to enjoy the experience.

Over the next several hours, the meal unfolded through a succession of beautifully presented courses. The food, atmosphere, and attentive hospitality made the evening feel special from beginning to end.

Wagyu steak was among the highlights, followed by desserts that brought the dinner to a satisfying close. By the time we finished, we were thoroughly full and happy.

More than anything, I appreciated having these last few unhurried hours together. After so much sightseeing and movement, we could sit across the table, enjoy an exceptional meal, and talk about the journey we had shared.

Kyoto in the Rain

The next morning, we woke to rain.

Before leaving, we took a short walk around the hotel. Kyoto felt different beneath the cloudy sky, and we made the most of the chance to take a few final photographs.

Back at the hotel, we enjoyed one last traditional Japanese breakfast before collecting our bags and heading to the station.

Our journey would take us by bullet train back toward Tokyo, followed by an evening flight home to the United States.

A Reason to Return

Leaving Kyoto, we both wished we could have stayed a few more days.

We had seen so much, yet there was clearly much more waiting for us. The temples, gardens, historic streets, and riverside moments had given us only a first introduction to the city.

Japan had become one of our most memorable trips. Its food, landscapes, history, and hospitality gave us countless experiences to talk about long after returning home.

For me, the greatest part was sharing it with my son: riding the bullet train together, exploring unfamiliar streets, choosing shoes, and ending our final evening over a remarkable dinner.

We left with photographs and souvenirs, but also with stories that would become part of our family’s history.

And we left with a reason to return—to spend more time in Kyoto and continue the journey from where we had paused.

— Atlas Walker | Triyana Diaries