India Begins Here: Delhi, Varanasi & a Return to Pratapgarh

Our newest India chapter follows temple visits, Banarasi food, an evening on the Ganges and a return to Pratapgarh after nearly thirty years.

India Trip — Feature of the Month
Delhi, Varanasi & Pratapgarh Chapter
By Atlas Walker & Curious Compass

Two weeks in India, several destinations, reunions with friends and family, and a destination wedding in Rajasthan. We had been looking forward to this trip for many reasons, and our itinerary reflected all of them.

Our journey began in Delhi before taking us to Varanasi and nearby Pratapgarh. These opening days brought together temple visits, wonderful street food, an unforgettable evening on the Ganges, and the warmth of being hosted by local friends and family.

For me, this chapter held another special meaning: I was returning to Pratapgarh after almost thirty years.

A Short Night in Delhi

We landed in Delhi late at night after a flight of more than fourteen hours from New York’s JFK Airport. American Airlines business class made the journey comfortable, and we arrived reasonably rested despite the distance.

Our first stop was the JW Marriott in Aerocity, roughly a ten-minute drive from Indira Gandhi International Airport that night. With an early flight to Varanasi the following morning, the location was ideal.

There is something optimistic about checking into a lovely hotel knowing you will barely have time to enjoy the bed. After a short night’s sleep, we were back at the airport, bright and early, for our Air India flight.

The trip had begun, and we were eager to make the most of it.

Varanasi: A Familiar City, Rediscovered

Varanasi—also known as Banaras or Kashi—was a place we were especially excited to revisit after many years.

Set on the banks of the Ganges in Uttar Pradesh, it is one of India’s most revered spiritual destinations. Its temples and riverfront ghats are central to its identity, alongside its celebrated silk weaving and distinctive food traditions. (incredibleindia.gov.in⁠)

Our local friends and family welcomed us on arrival and hosted us during our stay. Their hospitality made our return feel personal from the beginning. Having people who knew the city accompany us also helped us make the most of our short visit.

Landing early gave us a full day to explore, and we began with one of the city’s most sacred places: Kashi Vishwanath Temple.

Kashi Vishwanath: In the Heart of Kashi

Dedicated to Lord Shiva as Vishwanath, meaning “Lord of the Universe,” Kashi Vishwanath is one of Hinduism’s twelve sacred Jyotirlinga shrines.

The present temple was built in 1780 under the patronage of Maharani Ahilyabai Holkar of Indore, continuing a much older history of worship associated with the site. In the nineteenth century, Maharaja Ranjit Singh of Punjab donated gold for its spire and domes, contributing to the golden appearance for which it is known. (shrikashivishwanath.org⁠, prod.incredibleindia.gov.in⁠)

The queues were long when we arrived, and security was thorough. Fortunately, our hosts had arranged special darshan access, which made entry smoother and shortened our wait.

We spent a couple of hours visiting different parts of the complex and taking in the atmosphere. Knowing something of the temple’s history made us appreciate the visit even more. Generations of pilgrims had come here before us, each carrying their own prayers and reasons for making the journey.

During our visit, phones and cameras had to be left outside the secure temple area. We stored our belongings before entering, so there were no photographs to take and no screens to check. We simply spent time looking, listening, and being there.

A Taste of Banaras

After the temple visit, we were hungry—and very ready for the street food we had been looking forward to.

Food is an essential part of discovering Varanasi. Among its famous specialties are kachori-sabzi, crisp fried breads served with a spiced vegetable or chickpea preparation, and tamatar chaat, a warm, tangy tomato-based snack. Chooda matar, made with flattened rice and green peas, is another local favorite, while Banarasi lassi, a rich yogurt drink, offers a sweeter pause between savory bites. (incredibleindia.gov.in⁠, darshan.kashi.gov.in⁠, kashi.gov.in⁠)

The city is also celebrated for Banarasi paan, a betel-leaf preparation with assorted fillings, and malaiyyo, a delicate, airy milk sweet associated with the cooler months. There is enough variety here to turn a casual food stop into an afternoon’s occupation. (incredibleindia.gov.in⁠, lonelyplanet.com⁠)

We sampled a wide variety of street food, happily accepting that we could not fit everything into one visit.

Our approach was to try “just a little” of several things. As usual, that sensible-sounding plan left us very full.

Chai, Several Times a Day

Drinking hot, milky chai from small clay cups, known as kulhads, became a favorite ritual several times a day. Each cup brought a comforting earthy aroma, a welcome pause between visits, and more time for conversations with friends and family. Those simple moments became as memorable as the sights themselves.

Birla Temple: An Afternoon at BHU

Our next stop was the New Vishwanath Temple, commonly known as the Birla Temple, within the Banaras Hindu University campus.

Conceived through the vision of BHU founder Pandit Madan Mohan Malaviya and supported by the Birla family, the temple took thirty-five years to complete. Its foundation was laid in 1931, and construction finished in 1966. Verses from the Bhagavad Gita and other sacred texts are engraved on its marble walls, and the temple welcomes visitors of all faiths. (incredibleindia.gov.in⁠)

The setting gave us an opportunity to slow down and appreciate the architecture and inscriptions.

Visiting both Vishwanath temples in one day added depth to our understanding of the city. Each had its own setting and character, and both became memorable parts of our return to Kashi.

An Evening on the Ganges

By dusk, we were ready to see Varanasi from the river.

We boarded a boat for a tour along the historic ghats before watching the evening Ganga Aarti. From the water, we could appreciate the riverfront as a whole: steps descending to the Ganges, buildings rising behind them, and people gathering along the banks.

After a day spent moving through the city, the boat ride gave us time to sit and watch.

Then came the aarti.

We had seen the ceremony on television many times, but being there added so much that a screen could not convey. The lamps, the sound of prayers and bells, the gathering crowds, and the river around us all became part of the experience.

We watched quietly, taking it in.

By the time we left, it had become one of the most memorable moments of our visit. Our day had started with an early flight and covered a great deal, but the evening on the Ganges was what stayed with us as we headed back.

Pratapgarh: Returning After Almost Thirty Years

The next morning, we set out early for Pratapgarh, a drive of roughly a couple of hours on our visit.

For me, this was a particularly meaningful part of the trip. I was coming back after almost thirty years, and the city had changed so much that it was nearly unrecognizable.

Our first stop was Bela Devi Temple, also known as Belha Devi, on the banks of the Sai River.

The shrine has a close connection to the town’s identity: the district’s official history links the name Belha with the temple of Belha Bhawani beside the river. (pratapgarh.nic.in⁠, pratapgarh.nic.in⁠)

Arriving early worked in our favor. We were able to visit the shrines within the premises without long queues or the pressure of a large crowd moving behind us.

After the previous day’s busy schedule, we appreciated the chance to take our time.

Once our temple visit was complete, however, another priority became clear.

Breakfast.

Jalebi and Chai in a Clay Cup

We had been craving jalebi: crisp, coiled spirals of fried batter soaked in sugar syrup.

Fresh jalebi has a particularly convincing way of making you forget any sensible breakfast plans. Add Indian tea served in a small clay cup—a kulhad—and we were very happy.

There was nothing elaborate about the moment. We had finished an early temple visit, breakfast was sweet and satisfying, and there was a full day of reunions ahead.

Sometimes those are the travel memories that stay clearest.

We spent the afternoon visiting friends and family we had not seen in many years. There was plenty to catch up on, and conversations moved easily between old memories and everything that had happened since we last met.

These visits were an important part of why we had come. Seeing a place again matters; seeing the people connected to it makes the return personal.

After a few more local stops in the evening, we headed back to Varanasi, grateful that we had made time for Pratapgarh.

Back to Delhi—with Wedding Shopping to Do

Our flight to Delhi departed at 9:30 the following morning, so we kept the morning simple. After a flight of about ninety minutes, we arrived around 11 a.m. and returned to our familiar base at the JW Marriott Aerocity.

For this part of the trip, the location suited us well. We were close to the airport, had restaurants and shops nearby, and could avoid spending too much of a short stay crossing Delhi in traffic.

We also had a specific mission.

A dear friend’s son was getting married in Udaipur, and the upcoming three-day celebration required a few more outfits than we had brought with us.

We headed to Ambience Mall in Vasant Kunj, about fifteen minutes from our hotel that day. One of our stops was Mohanlal Sons, where we shopped for high-end men’s Indian outfits for the upcoming wedding celebrations. Choosing festive styles and coordinating looks became an enjoyable part of preparing for Udaipur.
The variety of shops made the mall convenient, and fixed prices kept the process straightforward. Bargaining takes confidence, local knowledge, and some idea of the right price; this time, we appreciated being able to focus on choosing outfits we liked.

Much of the afternoon disappeared into browsing, trying things on, and imagining what we would wear during the three days of celebrations ahead.

Dinner and Catching Up at Daryaganj

That evening, we met a local friend for dinner at Daryaganj.

The restaurant celebrates the culinary legacy of Kundan Lal Jaggi and the Punjabi refugees who helped shape Delhi’s food culture after Partition in 1947. Butter chicken and dal makhani are central to its story and identity, making it a fitting place to enjoy familiar North Indian flavors. (daryaganj.com⁠)

Over dinner and drinks, we settled into the pleasure of catching up. There was no rush to finish the conversation, and we hardly noticed how late it had become.

By the time we returned to the hotel, we were satisfied with a day that had accomplished exactly what we needed: wedding shopping and time with a friend.

Delhi has enough history, monuments, neighborhoods, and food to fill an entire trip. This time, however, our plans were more personal and practical. We were happy to enjoy the city in the way this journey allowed.

Next Stop: Udaipur

The following morning, we would be flying to Udaipur.

Our opening days in India had already given us a great deal to remember: Kashi Vishwanath, the flavors of Banaras, an evening watching the Ganga Aarti from the river, and the warmth of friends and family who hosted us along the way.

For me, returning to Pratapgarh after almost thirty years would remain one of the most personal moments of the trip. The city had changed beyond recognition, but the welcome we received made the journey back worthwhile.

And woven through those days were the little clay cups of chai—enjoyed several times a day, often in good company, and always a welcome reason to pause.

Ahead of us were Udaipur, Mount Abu, and a big, joyful Indian wedding—with plenty of occasions to put those new outfits to use.

Coming next on Triyana Diaries: Rajasthan, reunions, and three days of wedding celebrations.

By Atlas Walker & Curious Compass
Triyana Diaries⁠