Four friends, two continents, three empires—and one unforgettable journey through Istanbul

Some cities attract you because of their beauty. Others because of their food, culture, or architecture.

Istanbul had fascinated me for a different reason: its extraordinary history. Formerly known as Constantinople, Istanbul has stood at the crossroads of civilizations for centuries. It served as an imperial capital for the Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman Empires, and few cities in the world can claim such a remarkable legacy.

For years, Istanbul had been high on my list of places to visit.

So when my wife and I finally planned a trip there with our friends Sultan and Sultana, I knew this would be much more than another city break.

It would be a journey through history—with plenty of Turkish food, shopping, laughter, and a few very late nights along the way.

Arriving in Istanbul

We flew from the United States via London on British Airways, arriving in Istanbul early Friday afternoon.

Our home for the trip was the JW Marriott Istanbul Bosphorus, perfectly located for exploring the city and, more importantly, experiencing the waterway that has shaped Istanbul for centuries.

The weather couldn’t have welcomed us better.

Blue skies, comfortable temperatures, and the Bosphorus shimmering in the afternoon sun made it tempting to start exploring immediately.

After a long journey, however, we decided not to overload our first day.

We settled into the hotel and then headed out to get our first taste of Istanbul.

The Bosphorus: Where Europe Meets Asia

You can’t really understand Istanbul without understanding the Bosphorus.

The narrow strait separates the European and Asian sides of the city while connecting the Black Sea with the Sea of Marmara.

Standing along the waterfront and realizing that Europe was on one side and Asia on the other was one of those simple travel moments that stays with you.

Mosques, palaces, ferries, fishing boats, waterfront homes, and modern buildings all seemed to compete for space along the shoreline.

Our first major stop was the Yeni Cami, or New Mosque, a magnificent Ottoman-era mosque completed in the 17th century.

Its cascading domes, minarets, intricate tilework, and dramatic interior gave us our first real introduction to Istanbul’s magnificent Ottoman architecture.

And it was only the beginning.

Hagia Sophia: 1,500 Years of History Under One Dome

The next morning we had ambitious plans.

First on the list was one of the places I had been waiting years to see:

Hagia Sophia.

Few buildings tell the story of Istanbul quite like this one.

Originally built in the sixth century under Byzantine Emperor Justinian I, Hagia Sophia has witnessed nearly 1,500 years of religious, political, and cultural change.

It began as a Byzantine Christian cathedral, became a mosque following the Ottoman conquest of Constantinople in 1453, later became a museum, and today once again functions as an active mosque while remaining one of Istanbul’s greatest historic attractions.

Walking inside felt like entering several periods of history simultaneously.

Above us was the enormous pendentive dome, an architectural achievement that must have appeared almost impossible when it was constructed in the sixth century.

Around us were reminders of different chapters of the building’s history.

Ancient Byzantine mosaics depicting Christ, the Virgin Mary, emperors, and empresses coexist with enormous Ottoman calligraphic medallions.

Christian and Islamic history share the same extraordinary space.

We spent hours there, and it still felt as though we had only scratched the surface.

A Few Important Tips Before Visiting Istanbul’s Mosques

One thing visitors should remember is that places such as Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque are not simply tourist attractions—they are active places of worship.

Respecting local customs is essential.

Women should bring a headscarf and wear clothing that covers the shoulders and knees. Men should also dress modestly, with shoulders and knees covered. Requirements and tourist-access hours can change, so it’s worth checking current rules before visiting.

Friday prayers are especially important, and tourist access may be restricted around prayer times.

A little preparation can save you from inconvenience while also showing appropriate respect for the places you are visiting.

Grand Bazaar: Time to Test Our Negotiating Skills

From centuries of religious history, we moved on to a very different Istanbul tradition:

shopping.

Our next stop was the legendary Grand Bazaar, whose origins date to shortly after the Ottoman conquest of Constantinople in the 15th century.

With thousands of shops spread through a maze of covered streets, it remains one of the world’s oldest and largest covered markets.

Friends who had visited before gave us one piece of advice:

Brush up on your negotiating skills.

Apparently, we were going to need them.

The wives arrived super excited with their shopping lists.

Patrick and I arrived equally excited to finally put our supposedly excellent bargaining skills to the test.

I’m not entirely sure who won—the shoppers, the negotiators, or the shopkeepers—but several hours later we emerged carrying shopping bags filled with handmade Turkish jewelry, leather goods, and other local finds.

I’d call that a successful negotiation.

Although I’m sure the shopkeepers probably called it the same thing.

Dinner Overlooking the Blue Mosque

By the time we finished shopping, darkness had fallen and we were hungry.

Istanbul certainly doesn’t suffer from a shortage of good restaurants, and after debating several recommendations we chose Turgut Kebab Restaurant in Sultanahmet.

It turned out to be an excellent choice.

From the rooftop, we had a spectacular view toward the Blue Mosque while enjoying traditional Turkish dishes and kebabs.

The food was excellent, the service warm, and the setting made the evening even more memorable.

We finished the night exactly as one should in Istanbul:

Turkish tea and baklava.

Topkapi Palace: Inside the World of the Ottoman Sultans

The following morning was dedicated to Topkapi Palace.

For roughly four centuries, this sprawling palace complex served as the administrative and residential heart of the Ottoman Empire.

If Hagia Sophia tells Istanbul’s religious story, Topkapi gives you a glimpse into the private and political world of the Ottoman sultans.

There was almost too much history to process in a single visit.

One of the most fascinating sections was the Imperial Harem.

Far more complex than the popular image associated with the word “harem,” this was the highly regulated private world of the Sultan’s household and family.

Then came the Imperial Treasury, famous for its extraordinary collection of jewels, ceremonial objects, and priceless treasures accumulated during centuries of Ottoman rule.

The palace also houses important sacred Islamic relics and numerous artifacts documenting the enormous reach of the Ottoman Empire.

While we were walking through the grounds, rain began falling.

Instead of spoiling the experience, it cooled the day and gave the courtyards and gardens an entirely different atmosphere.

Sometimes travel gives you exactly the weather you need.

The Blue Mosque

After Topkapi Palace, we made a stop at another Istanbul icon:

the Sultan Ahmed Mosque, better known as the Blue Mosque.

With its six minarets, grand courtyard, cascading domes, and beautiful İznik tiles, the mosque is one of the defining images of Istanbul.

Seeing it from restaurant rooftops is impressive.

Standing beneath its domes is something else entirely.

But our day wasn’t finished.

We were leaving Europe, Without leaving Istanbul.

Crossing from Europe to Asia

One of Istanbul’s most fascinating characteristics is that the city literally occupies two continents.

Later that day, we crossed beneath the Bosphorus to Istanbul’s Asian side.

Within minutes, we had traveled from Europe to Asia without ever leaving the city.

From across the water, the views back toward Istanbul’s historic skyline were spectacular.

Domes and minarets rose above the waterfront while ferries moved constantly across the Bosphorus.

The Asian side also gave us an opportunity to discover some quieter historic places.

We visited Kaptan Paşa Camii, a peaceful mosque that felt far removed from the crowds surrounding Istanbul’s major attractions.

We also stopped at Rum Mehmed Paşa Mosque, an early Ottoman mosque near the waterfront.

These smaller places often provide a completely different experience.

There are fewer crowds, less rushing, and more time to simply observe the architecture and atmosphere.

Turkish Coffee by the Bosphorus

After all that walking, there was only one logical next stop.

Coffee – We stopped at Nevmekân Sahil for Turkish coffee before heading to dinner

 Dinner at Katibim, where we were lucky enough to get terrace seating overlooking the Bosphorus.

Good Mediterranean and Turkish food, friends around the table, and Istanbul illuminated across the water—it was one of those evenings when nobody was in a hurry to leave.

And fortunately, Istanbul wasn’t in a hurry to go to sleep either.

Midnight Desserts at Hafız Mustafa

Istanbul is one of those cities that seems to operate on its own clock.

Late at night, restaurants are still busy, cafés remain full, and people continue strolling through the streets.

So sometime after midnight, we did what any responsible travelers would do.

We went looking for dessert.

Our destination was Hafız Mustafa, the legendary Turkish dessert shop whose history dates back to the 19th century.

Hot künefe arrived straight from the pan.

Then came baklava.

Then vanilla ice cream.

Then Turkish tea.

Was any of this necessary after dinner?

Absolutely not.

Did that stop us?

Absolutely not.

Some travel decisions require no justification.

Istanbul From the Water

For our final full day, we deliberately slowed things down.

After several days of palaces, mosques, bazaars, shopping, walking, eating, and crossing continents, we wanted to experience Istanbul from the perspective that defines it best.

The Bosphorus.

We boarded a boat and spent time cruising between Europe and Asia.

From the water, Istanbul reveals itself differently.

Palaces line the shoreline. Mosques dominate the skyline. Ferries crisscross the strait. Historic mansions sit beside modern hotels and restaurants.

And somewhere in the middle of it all, you’re floating between two continents.

It was exactly the relaxed day we needed.

At least until lunch.

A Turkish Lunch With a Show

We had been eagerly waiting to try Hatay Medeniyetler Sofrası, known for its elaborate Turkish dishes, grilled meats, and theatrical tableside presentations.

This wasn’t simply lunch.

It was entertainment.

Food arrived with plenty of ceremony, grilled meats were presented dramatically, and the staff turned the meal into an experience.

It is definitely on the pricier side compared with many Istanbul restaurants.

But for us, the combination of food, service, and entertainment made it worth trying.

And since it was our last day, we weren’t exactly interested in being sensible.

One Last Night at Taksim Square

We decided to spend our final evening with Sultan and Sultana at Taksim Square.

That turned into almost the entire night.

Taksim is one of modern Istanbul’s great gathering places—a constantly moving mix of locals, travelers, restaurants, cafés, shops, street life, celebrations, and people seemingly heading somewhere at every hour.

Nearby stands the Taksim Mosque, opened in 2021, adding another striking architectural landmark to the square.

We wandered, talked, ate, watched people, and simply enjoyed being together.

One hour became another.

And another.

Eventually we realized something slightly inconvenient.

We had an early flight home.

By then, sleeping almost seemed pointless.

Goodbye Istanbul

Before we knew it, our Istanbul adventure with Sultan and Sultana was over.

We were back at the airport, boarding our flight home and wondering how several days had disappeared so quickly.

I had wanted to visit Istanbul for years because of its history.

And the history certainly didn’t disappoint.

But what surprised me was how much more there was to the city.

Istanbul isn’t simply about the Romans, Byzantines, or Ottomans.

It isn’t simply Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace, the Blue Mosque, or the Grand Bazaar.

It is hearing the call to prayer while ferries cross the Bosphorus.

It is drinking Turkish coffee in Asia after spending the morning exploring Europe.

It is negotiating in the Grand Bazaar and wondering afterward who actually got the better deal.

It is eating hot künefe after midnight when nobody needs another bite.

It is watching Istanbul’s skyline from a restaurant terrace.

And sometimes, it is staying awake all night at Taksim Square with good friends because going back to the hotel feels like wasting the final few hours of a great trip.

We came to Istanbul looking for history.

We found that everywhere.

But we also found a city that is energetic, welcoming, delicious, chaotic, historic, modern, European, Asian—and somehow all of those things at once.

Atlas Walker’s Take

“Some cities ask you to choose between the past and the present. Istanbul doesn’t. It puts both on the same street, serves you Turkish tea, and lets the Bosphorus run between them.”

Triyana Travel Tips: Istanbul

● Give Istanbul at least 4–5 days. There is far more to experience than the major historic attractions.

● Stay near the Bosphorus or historic center if this is your first visit.

● Visit both continents. Don’t spend the entire trip on the European side.

● Take a Bosphorus cruise. The city looks completely different from the water.

● Dress appropriately for mosques. Carrying a light scarf is especially useful for women visiting multiple religious sites.

● Check current prayer and visitor hours before visiting active mosques, particularly on Fridays.

● Allow several hours for Topkapi Palace. Add extra time if you plan to visit the Harem and major collections.

● Negotiate at the Grand Bazaar, but keep it friendly. The interaction is part of the experience.

● Eat dessert late at night. Istanbul gives you very little reason to go to bed early.

● Try Turkish tea and coffee. Both are part of the cultural experience, not simply beverages.

● Wear comfortable shoes. Istanbul involves plenty of walking, hills, stone streets, and enormous historic complexes.

● Don’t over-plan every hour. Some of our favorite moments came from simply sitting beside the Bosphorus or wandering the city with friends.

Final Thoughts

Istanbul had been on my travel list for years because I wanted to walk through a city that had witnessed the rise and fall of empires.

I finally did.

But when I think about the trip now, I don’t only remember emperors, sultans, mosques, palaces, and ancient mosaics.

I remember four friends laughing over dinner.

I remember Patrick and me testing our negotiating skills while our wives shopped their way through the Grand Bazaar.

I remember coffee overlooking the Bosphorus, baklava after midnight, crossing from Europe into Asia, rain falling over Topkapi Palace, and our final sleepless night around Taksim Square.

History may have brought us to Istanbul.

Friendship, food, laughter, and the magic of the Bosphorus are what made us want to return.